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Our adventures in Canada   (5 posts, most recent listed first)
 
Mural painted by friends at our going-away bash
11/03/00 Down under ho!
11/02/00 Downsize
11/02/00 Farewell Vancouver
10/21/00 Typing by candlelight in a pithouse
10/21/00 Hat Creek Ranch



Hat Creek Ranch

Location: Hat Creek Ranch,
British Columbia, Canada

October 21, 2000 - Kiran

"The sweat lodge is like a womb," Lorraine said. Our womb was about 7 feet wide with a dugout pit in the middle which she was filling with hot lava rocks from the fire (traditionally carried with reindeer antlers still attached to part of the skull). "You go in there and the grandfather rocks absorb what you leave behind after you purify yourself. You come out with a fresh beginning, ready to take on new challenges without old worries." She poured water over the rocks with a metal ladle. "Can you see the eyes in there?" A coyote winked at me as the water hissed and bubbled.

We arrived at Hat Creek Ranch, near Cache Creek, BC in the late afternoon. Lorraine, a Stuctwesemc woman who had agreed to discuss the traditions of her culture, whisked us immediately away for "a couple rounds" at her sweat lodge. We gave thanks to the four directions, north-east-south-west, by offering tobacco to each direction we faced. The same was done inside the lodge. We entered at the left and crawled to a space around the pit, sitting down on a soft carpet of pine needles. Lorraine made the offerings and then threw medicine on the rocks: a mixture including sage, tobacco and willow. The smoke from the burning medicine made its way past our noses and circled through the willow branches over our heads. The branches, covered traditionally with skins, made the low dome cover to the lodge. In complete darkness the sweat dripped from our pores as we were cleansed.


The first 'round' is for the Creator. Lorraine prayed (aloud, but it's up to each person) for all the things the Creator has provided. She sang a song, and offered a prayer for the owner of the song. She apologized for not having any of her instruments; instead, she used a metal water bucket as a drum while she sang the verses four times, once for each direction. She prayed for her people, who are going through a very difficult period. The problems began when the Europeans brought alcohol over to trade, she says.
"You have to pray especially for those who are sick, or who have taken their own lives. We pray for them to find open doors to pass through."

The second round is dedicated to the men, the third to the women, and the final round to yourself. Material things aren't worthy of prayer, instead strength, courage, wisdom, guidance...
As you pray, spirits of your ancestors may be sitting with you.

Feeling very calm and clean, we headed to our home for the evening, a traditional pit house. We made offerings of tobacco and sage to the four directions, this time with more confidence. Our trip is off to a fresh and momentous start.
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Typing by candlelight in a pit house
Location: Hat Creek Ranch,
British Columbia, Canada
October 21, 2000 - Geoff

It's hard to type by candlight and the irony of typing on a notebook computer in the kekuli (pit house) is not lost on me. Having to rely on the wax and wick to illuminate this machine is typical of our journey. The support beams of the pit house are casting angled shadows. I just had to divert a daddy-long-legs spider from its path towards Kiran's sleeping bag. I hope I didn't hurt it as I eased it over the ledge.

We have a bear guarding our door. I wrestled with the skin of a large black bear and propped it on a board to cut the draft from the lower entrance as Loraine had suggested. We feel so good in here. So much of that comes from Loraine's warm welcome and moving words. It's warm up on the ledge with a meter of earth over us. There is a nice scent of sage in the air from the smudge she left with us. Kiran and I said some words over the fire to express thanks for the forces and friends that have helped start our journey. We offered tobacco to the four directions before saying goodnight to the fire. There were only embers left from the sweet smelling fir boughs and the medicine Loraine threw on when she built us the fire.I think Kiran may already be asleep and I'll be there soon. Our air mattresses are laid over reed mats on the earth ledge. I wonder who we'll see here tonight.
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Farewell Vancouver
Location: Vancouver,
British Columbia, Canada
November 2, 2000 - Geoff

There are moments when we actually relax. We haven't had any of those moments but I'm sure they exist. The days since we returned from Cache Creek have been hectic and a bit of a blur. I have paint on my fingers and strained muscles. Sunday night I think I went up and down our apartment stairs 17 times between midnight and 5AM lugging furniture and boxes (Kiran's carefully labeled, mine organized chaos). Monday we returned the bright lively walls of our home to their original mundane white in an all night painting frenzy. Now we're attempting to wind down and forget the errands left to do. Kiran poured two glasses of red wine and a hot bath with mineral salts.

That was 2 hours ago. We've spent the time in between saying phone farewells to our family. The wine still tastes good but the bath is a bit cold. Our room is on the 23rd floor of a hotel overlooking English Bay. We're directly across from the apartment we lived in when we first moved to Vancouver, also on the 23rd floor. There was a garbage worker's strike at the time and the stink couldn't quite reach our lofty abode. There's a garbage strike on now, three years later. Everything seems to come full circle. I think the excitement will finally hit us when we strap our seatbelts on and return our chairs and tables to the upright and locked position. Until then it's one step at a time. I'll miss Vancouver, and all of our wonderful friends and family in Canada. Now it's time to travel and to make new friends to add to our community.
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Downsize...
Location: Vancouver,
British Columbia, Canada
November 2, 2000 - Kiran

The eternal backpacker's dilemma... what to keep, what not to keep? I try to follow words of advice from my friends, lay out everything in front of you and then get rid of half. It is impossible. Just in case this, just in case that.

My backpack is far too heavy, laden with clothes (we will encounter every season), electronic gadgets (to document our trip and update our website), guide books (to do our research in advance), gifts for kids (well?). As the flurry of stuff piles and unpiles in and around our bags, the hotel t.v. presents a Jerry Springer show: women who are proud of their "Double-F" size enlarged breasts. The women parade around during their introductions and then defensively shout their justifications to the demanding and flat-chested studio audience. I wonder if I will miss North America.
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Down under ho!
Location: Somewhere over the Pacific
on the way to Australia
November 3, 2000 - Kiran

Sleep, change planes, eat, sleep, change planes… somewhere in the 20 hours of flight we lose a day. Soon we will wake up and be in the land down under.

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Read on about our adventures in Australia

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